India Fashion: Traditional Indian sarees

Kota Doria and lugade saris- exploiting desi grandeur

 

Kota doria are one of the many types of sari available in Rajasthan. Kota doria saris are made at Kota, Rajasthan city and its nearby areas. These types of Sarees are made of pure cotton fabric. Originally, such sarees were called Masuria because they were woven in Mysore.

 

The weavers were initially brought to Kota by Rao Kishore Singh who was an influential general in the Moghul army. The weavers were brought to Kota in the late 17th and early 18th century and the saris came to be known as 'Kota-Masuria'.

 

Kota sarees are also popularly known as 'Masuria' in Kota and Kotadoria outside the state. 'Doria' means thread. These are very light textured sari and are comfortable to wear keeping the hot climate of these states in mind.

 

Generally these saris are available in earthy subtle colors. Now deep colors are also being used. Not only Rajasthani women but from other states also are fond of these Kota saris.

 

Lugade Saris

 

Lugade another variety of sari is available in Maharashtra. It's basically Hindu woman's dress is the full Maharashtrian style of nine yards. It is forty-two to forty-five inches in width, and it has two lengthwise borders kanth or kinar, and also two breadth wise borders padar, at the two ends, of which one is more decorated than the other.

 

The mode of wearing the Lugade by Maratha Brahmins and other classes is with the hind pleats tucked into the waist at the back-centre and the decorated end (padar) thrown over the left shoulder. Maratha ladies allow it to hang from the waist straight down and around like a skirt, and draw its end which covers the bosom and back over the head.

 

Saris of five or six yards in length have now become fashionable among young ladies in the urban centres.

Benarasi saris- one of the finest in India

 

Benarasi saris are considered one of the finest saris in India. These saris are made of finely woven silk and fine tissues (Zari) and are decorated with elaborate engravings. Because of these engravings, these saris are relatively heavy.

 

Benarasi saris are mostly worn by Indian women on important occasions such as when attending a wedding and are expected to be complemented by the woman's best jewelry preferably golden ones. In fact wedding /engagement and Benarasi saris go hand in hand.

 

Ranging from two thousand rupees the price of this sari goes up to fifty thousand rupees depending upon the rich Zari work on the sari. Teaming up with modern day's style artisans put some mirror work, zardosi work along with the silk and Zari which enhances the look of the sari and makes it heavy too.

 

But Benarasi sari never goes out of fashion. It is usually worn in two or three styles. Some ladies prefer it to wear it in the general Indian style whereas the pleats are tucked in front and the border (pallu) is pinned to the blouse on the left shoulder.

 

During some occasions ladies prefer to drape the border (pallu) from the back on the right shoulder and expose the pallu's design in front. Any woman who wears a Benarasi sari looks gorgeous because of its rich texture.

 

You may wish to see: Photo Gallery of Saris

 

During earlier days people used to get Benarasi saris embroidered with real gold and silver threads. These saris eventually got handed over to the forthcoming generations. Till date Benarasi saris are considered as an asset in a ladies wardrobe.

Bandhni, shalu and tanchoi saris- never heard of them?

 

Bandhni is another type of multicolored sari available in Rajasthan and Gujarat. The term "bandhani" derives its name from a Hindi word bandhan which means tying up. Bandhani work involves tying and dyeing of pieces of cotton or silk cloth, the main colors used in Bandhani are yellow, red, green and black.

 

Bandhani work, after the processing is over, results into a variety of symbols including, dots, squares, waves and strips. The main colors used in Bandhani are natural. In fact all colors in bandhani are dark, no light color is used, and the background is mostly in black / red cloth.

 

The Bandhani work has been exclusively carried out by Muslim Khatri Community of Kutchh. These Muslim Khatri Women have been the custodians of this art from one generation to another. A meter long of cloth can have millions of tiny knots known as "Bheendi" in local language ("Kutchhi").

 

These knots form a design once open after dyeing in bright colors. Traditionally, the final products can be classified into "Khombi", "Ghar Chola", "Patori", "Chandrokhani" etc. In modern days Bandhani is very popular not only in ladies wears but in gents dresses too, Jamnagar a city in Gujarat (India) is very famous for bandhani work. In fact today also bandhani is printed using ancient block printing techniques and handmade colors in Jamnagar.

 

You may wish to see the Saree Photo Gallery

 

The base of this sari is either in cotton, georgette or in silk Bandhni dress material is popular among teenagers also. Bandhni saris are very easy to wash and wear at the same time cost effective too. Colorful to watch these saris enhance the beauty of a woman.

 

Shalu and Tanchoi Saris

 

Shalu is a special type of sari made in Varanasi. It is usually a soft textured sari worn by the women for regular use. Another type of light silk based sari found here is the Tanchoi. These saris are generally of light weight with zari or tissue thread works on the body. Affordably priced these saris are a favorite among women.